Laurent-Perrier Champagne (Series) – Cuveé Rosé

Posted on February 12, 2015 by A Cook's Canvas

In the midst of a cultural revolution, visionary winemaker Bernard de Nonancourt created a daring wine that combined a structure of freshness with soft character. Making non-vintage rosé champagne was virtually unthinkable prior to 1968.

Inspired by the times of French King Henri IV, a distinctive and elegant bottle was created to celebrate this special cuvée. With notes and aromas of freshly-picked berry fruits this rosé can be paired with anything from foie gras canapés topped with red currants, pata negra ham, raw fish, and soft, creamy cheeses to berry fruit desserts. I like to enjoy it with one of my favorite desserts, a rich and creamy French custard topped with fresh raspberries enhances the wine’s crisply acidic taste and the fresh berries rhyme perfectly with the dry fruity notes.

The French custard crème brûlée (meaning burnt cream) is based on crème pâtissière, for which there are many uses; as a filling for éclairs and profiteroles (pâte à choux) or as a crème anglaise sauce drizzled over a poached pear, and my way to enjoy it, as a warm, silky baked custard as crème brûlée. There are only four ingredients to this decadent dessert; heavy cream, sugar, egg yolks and vanilla bean.

Oh, and of course you also need a blow torch! After whipping together the cream and pouring it into ramekins you top it off with raw sugar which is then gently toasted with a flame until the sugar melts into a glaze and caramelizes, producing a hard sugar crust which must be shattered to get at the velvety custard beneath. Don’t worry if you don’t have a blowtorch, you can place them under the broiler to achieve the same effect.

The first time I ever had crème brûlée was in Paris. My husband and I just stepped off the Batobus tour boat at Quai de Montebello close to the Notre Dame, on the way back to our apartment after visiting the Eiffel Tower. A storm was coming in and we thought we’d be able to make it back in time to pick up our umbrellas before it hit, but fortunately we didn’t. Running up the steps from the Seine we ducked into the first restaurant we passed to grab dinner. Without having done any research, reading any reviews, and without a reservation, we stepped into Le Montebello and were escorted to a table in the corner next to the window.

As the rain came down and I glanced at the menu and instantly knew what I was going to order. French onion soup for starters, boeuf bourguignon for an entree and crème brûlée for dessert. A carafe of Burgundy wine arrived at the table and Jason filled our glasses. The meal was delicious, all of it, but I was anxiously looking forward to trying my first crème brûlée. When it arrived I wasted no time, and with my spoon in hand I gently cracked through the caramel shell, and found a delicate custard speckled with vanilla bean. The shell was hard and crunchy, the custard soft and sweet. A perfect match.

My husband and I went to Paris for our 11th wedding Anniversary and when I look through our photos it feels like it was only yesterday. I’d give anything to visit Paris again one day, but until that day comes, I can recreate some of the wonderful dishes we enjoyed so much. So, I thought what a perfect pairing; Laurent-Perrier Rose Champagne and a luscious, creamy, rich custard infused with vanilla bean and topped with a caramel crust for Valentine’s Day.

Crème Brûlée

recipe adapted from Larousse Gastronomique

makes 2 servings

Ingredients

3 egg yolks

1/2 cup confectioners sugar

1 1/4 cups whipping gream

1/4 cup full milk

1/3 cup demerara (raw) sugar

1 vanilla bean

Use the tip of a sharp knife to cut the vanilla pod (bean) down the middle and scrape out the black seeds. Put them in a bowl with 3 egg yolks and 1/2 cup confectioners sugar and whisk well. Gradually add 1 1/4 cups whipping cream and 1/4 cup milk, whisking well all the time.

Strain through a fine sleeve. Transfer the cream mixture to small oven-proof ramekins and bake in a bain marie (water bath pan) in preheated oven at 300’F for 35 mins. Leave to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for 1 hour. Sprinkle the tops with 1/3 cup demerara (raw) sugar and lightly torch til golden. If you don’t have a torch, cook them under a preheated broiler. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.

Life’s Sweeter Side Luxury Bakery – Chicago, IL

Posted on February 12, 2015 by A Cook's Canvas

I first met Abby Zukowski, owner of Life’s Sweeter Side Bakery while judging chocolate dishes at the AIDS foundation of Chicago’s annual World of Chocolate gala. Though I tried many wonderful desserts, their chocolate cake was the best in my book. Rich, moist, and chocolatey, it was definitely one of the best I’ve tasted in quite some time. Founded in 2012, Life’s Sweeter Side bakes up innovative, delicious treats for every occasion, and they even offer their own singing cupcake, Cupid, to deliver them to you or your loved ones. I recently had a chance to preview some of their Valentine’s day creations and here are some of my favorites.

Chocolate bomb with strawberry marshmallow filling
The smooth dark chocolate filled with a light and airy strawberry marshmallow! The filling was a mystery to me until I broke through the chocolate shell, and this one was my favorite!

Double chocolate chip cupcake with dark chocolate buttercream frosting
This one is perfect for the chocolate lover! Chocolate, chocolate, and more chocolate! The chocolate buttercream was extremely smooth and rich, I was expecting some grittyness but there was absolutely none. Wonderful cupcake.

Chocolate candies
Colorful hand made heart-shaped chocolates with rich centers. I tried a sampling of different fillings but the fruit filled and buttery caramel were my favorites!

Fine French Cheeses paired with Casa Noble Tequilas

Posted on January 20, 2015 by A Cook's Canvas

Wine and cheese have been paired for centuries, and most people know at least a little bit about how to go about matching them. What most people do not know how to do is to pair cheeses with spirits, liquors, and beers; a trend which is growing among cheese fans who are looking for alternatives to the old reliable wine pairings. As we learned while living abroad, ports, brandies, whiskeys, and even schnapps can pair favorably with good cheeses, and I was recently asked to try pairing some delicate French cheeses with fine small-batch tequilas!

The French Cheese Board of New York City is a studio devoted to celebrating the art of French cheese making, and is a platform for the exchange of ideas with the goal of educating consumers about fine French cheeses.

Casa Noble, whose roots can be traced back to the mid-1700s when a hacienda surrounded by vast stretches of arid land perfect for the cultivation of agave began producing “Vino Tequila” which was aged in oak barrels and carried by mules to the cantinas of Mexico City and Guadalajara.

Fortunately, I didn’t have to start from scratch; the French Cheese board had suggested some pairings based on their expert palates, matching Casa Noble Crystal with a sharp, tangy Mimolette; a golden Reposado with a rich brandy-washed Époisses; and a smooth, rich Anejo with Fourme d’Ambert. In addition to the cheese pairings I tried a French Margarita. Here are my tasting notes.

Casa Noble Crystal Tequila with Mimolette
This crystal clear tequila had notes of citrus, mahogany, and buttery almond. The Mimolette cheese, introduced by Louis XIV in the 17th century comes from Pas-de-Calais, a cow’s milk cheese that is aged for 18 months. To this day, the cheese is still turned by hand once a week to ensure full nutty-earthy flavors with hints of butterscotch. When paired together with the Casa Noble Crystal, the tequila’s touch of sweetness reinforced the Mimolette’s rich nutty flavor and rounded out its tangy-salty character.

Casa Noble Reposado
The pale golden hued Reposado smells of aged tobacco and vanilla with a sliver of citrus. The taste is rich with creamy, buttery notes and is very mellow on the tongue. The Époisses cheese which Napolean called the “king of all cheeses” comes from Bourgogne (Burgundy), and is washed with Marc de Bourgogne, a pomace brandy distilled from the pressed grapes that remain after wine-making. When the Époisses cheese is washed with it, it adds a distinct flavor, imparting a sharp sweetness to the rind, and then it is aged 4 weeks. With it’s strong aroma and deep orange exterior, the interior is smooth and silky, with a unique salty taste and the distinct flavor of forest mushrooms. When paired with the Reposado, the Époisses delivers an enhanced creamy flavor that enhances the complex flavors of the tequila.

Casa Noble Añejo
Aged in French oak barrels, this pale amber Añejo has notes of honey, tobacco, vanilla, and a hint of clove. The taste is extremely mellow with no bite or harshness, thanks to the barrel ageing. Brown sugar notes are followed by a touch of cinnamon; not sweet but spicy and smooth. Fourme d’Ambert is one of France’s oldest cheeses, dating back to Roman times. This beautiful, blue-veined cheese comes from Avergne, France where it is made from raw cow’s milk. Aged in caves for two months, its rich, tangy, creamy flavor and mellow, salty, buttery blue veins deliver a deeply savory experience. When paired with this fine Añejo, the earthiness of the cheese and the spicy complex flavors of the tequila swim across the tongue, each complimenting the other.

French Margarita
The French margarita, allegedly and American invention, mingles the finest tequila with exquisite French liqueurs and fresh citrus juices, creating a lively cocktail that thoroughly refreshes the palate after a tasting of rich cheeses and complex tequilas.

Ingredients
2 oz. Casa Noble Blanco tequila
1 oz. Grand Marnier
1 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice
1 oz. freshly squeezed orange juice
1 oz. Chambord

Pour the tequila, Grand Marnier, lime juice and orange juice into a shaker filled with ice and give it a good shake. Pour into a chilled glass and with the back of a spoon, gently float the Chambord on top. Enjoy!

Resources:
Mimolette Cheese
The Cheeses of Europe
Époisses de Bourgogne
Pomace Brandy
Fourme d’Ambert

Ring in the New Year with Laurent-Perrier Champagne (Series) with Grand Siècle

Posted on January 1, 2015 by A Cook's Canvas

What better way to ring in the New Year than with a glass of fine Champagne? Tonight I’ll be uncorking an exquisite bottle of Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siécle, and since I think oysters are the perfect indulgence, I’ll be pairing it with an elegant seafood platter or plateau de fruits de mer.

Grand Siécle or “grand century” refers to the 17th century, considered by Voltaire to be “one of the greatest centuries of civilisation”; a golden age of French history and culture. It was a century marked by the reigns of Louis XIII ‘the Just’ and the Sun King, Louis XIV, the construction of the palace of Versailles, and the emergence of some of the greatest French painters, architects, and writers.

Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siécle was first released in 1960 with a blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay from Laurent-Perrier’s most successful vintage years. The hand-blown bottle is reminiscent of an 18th century design with a long narrow neck, and arrives in an elegant hard box that excludes light and makes a perfect gift. From Laurent-Perrier’s tasting notes, the wine itself is bright yellow hued with subtle fragrances of honey, hazelnuts, grilled almonds and fresh pastry, and is a powerful, well-rounded wine that is both rich and savory with a combination of unique balance, depth, and finesse.

I chose to prepare Chef Thomas Keller’s Plateau de fruits de mer which features oysters, clams, shrimp, and stone crab claws with a French mignonette for dipping. Mignonette is a condiment made with shallots, cracked pepper, and vinegar and is traditionally served with raw oysters.

If you’ve never shucked oysters, it can be difficult for first timers, but you could have them shucked at the store before bringing them home if you want to save yourself the trouble. But if you are adventurous and have the proper oyster knife in hand, why not try it yourself? Place a dish towel on a cutting board and place an oyster cupped side down at the end of the towel. Fold the towel over the rounded end of the oyster, with the hinged or narrow side exposed. Wiggle the tip of the oyster knife into the hinge and pry up the top shell until you hear a pop, then wiggle the knife back and fourth to loosen the shell. Keeping the knife directly against the top shell, run the blade along the right side to cut through the adductor muscle and release the top shell; remove and discard it. Slide the knife under the oyster to detach the muscle holding the oyster in place, but leave the oyster in it’s shell. Be cautious not to lose any of the juice.

Check for sand or any pieces of shell in the oyster liquor or on the shell and wipe any out with your finger. If the oyster liquor is very sandy, it can be discarded; the newly opened oyster will replenish the liquor. Set the oyster on a tray and repeat with the remaining oysters. If you’re not serving immediately, the oysters can be refrigerated for up to 1 hour. Flip oyster over and place shell side down on a bed of ice.

If you’ve never eaten raw oysters before, try eating one just by itself; this is the way real aficionados enjoy them so they can taste the brine of the sea.

Plateau de Fruits de Mer
recipe adapted from Chef Thomas Keller’s ‘The Complete Thomas Keller’
for two people

Ingredients
6 Stone Crab Claws
6 Large Shrimp
6 oysters
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 cup cabernet vinegar
2 tablespoons minced shallots

Mignonette sauce
Grind the peppercorns in a coffee or spice grinder. Sift through a strainer to remove the finer particles and transfer 1 1/2 teaspoons of the pepper to a small bowl. Mix in the vinegar and shallots and rrefrigerate overnight if possible to allow the flavors to develop. The mignonette can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Arranging the platter
Line a serving platter with shaved ice. Arrange the shellfish and serve with the mignonette sauce.

References
Bernard de Nonancourt
History of Grand Siècle

Martina McBride’s New Cookbook ‘Around the Table’ Holiday Cookie Recipes

Posted on December 24, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

Martina McBride’s new cookbook Around the Table: Recipes and Inspirations for Gatherings Throughout the Year is filled with entertaining menus and ideas for every occasion. In it, she says “If I weren’t a performer, I think I would love to be a party planner. Every aspect of planning a gathering – coming up with the party theme, designing a unique invitation, creating a menu, and setting the scene – speaks to my creative side.” With menu themes such as A Bountiful Tuscan Feast and Family Pizza Night to Red Wine and Vinyl to a Taco Fiesta, each with a suggested musical playlist, there’s a little something for everyone in this lovely book.

Not surprisingly, her family celebrates Christmas much in the same way that mine does, cutting down a tree and decorating with boxes of ornaments, each with stories and memories attached. We would watch Christmas movies or listen to Christmas music and enjoy mugs of hot cocoa or spiced apple cider and plates of fresh baked cookies.

The Christmas season upon us and it’ll soon be time to set out a plate of cookies for Santa, and I thought it would be great time to feature a couple of her delicious recipes that the kids can even help make. When I was little I remember decorating Christmas cookies with my family, each of us kids trying to make the perfect cookie for Santa. As Martina said “We all hang on to things from childhood, and food memories, especially, become so much a part of who we are.” I couldn’t agree more.

For Santa this year I chose triple chocolate cranberry oatmeal cookies, peanut butter incredibles, and a wonderful old-fashioned mulled cider that can be enjoyed by kids as well as grownups. The Triple-Chocolate Cranberry Oatmeal cookies are my new favorite which was a surprise to me as I’m not as much into cookies as I once was, but these are wonderful. The Peanut Butter Incredibles remind me of those my grandma used to make, and their flavor takes me right back to her kitchen. If you have trouble deciding, I would suggest making both as they will surely be a hit this holiday season.

Triple Chocolate Cranberry Oatmeal Cookies
makes 32 cookies

Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon orange zest
1 cup old-fashioned oats
1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate chunks
1 cup milk chocolate chips
1 cup white chocolate chips
1/2 cup dried cranberries

Preheat oven to 350’F. Line two 17×13 inch rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

Whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl and set aside. In a large bowl, cream the butter with both sugars until smooth and fluffy. Add the egg, vanilla, and orange zest and mix until blended. Stir in the the chocolate chunks, 1/2 cup of the milk chocolate chips, 1/2 cup of the white chocolate chips, and the dried cranberries.

Drop a tablespoon of the batter onto the prepared baking sheets, at least 2 inches apart. Bake for 12-14 minutes, or until the edges are lightly browned. Cool on the cookie sheet for five minutes then transfer the cookies to a rack and cool completely.

In separate small bowls, microwave the remaining 1/2 cup milk chocolate chips and 1/2 cup white chocolate chips on high power for 1 minute, sirring after 30 seconds. Using a small spoon, drizzle the melted chocolates over the cookies. Let the cookies stand until the chocolate sets, about 1 hour. This recipe can be made up to two days ahead. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Peanut Butter Incredibles
makes 36 (2 1/8 x 1 1/2-inch) bars

Ingredients
2/3 cup of unsalted butter
1 cup chunky peanut butter
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1 1/2 cups fine graham cracker crumbs
1 1/4 cups semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup butterscotch chips

Grease a 13×9-inch baking dish

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Stir in the peanut butter until smooth. Add the sugar, then the graham crackers crumbs, and stir well until blended. Press the mixture into the prepared baking dish.

Melt the chocolate and butterscotch chips in a bowl in the microwave on high in 30-second increments, stirring each time until chocolate-butterscotch mixture is melted and smooth. Pour the melted chocolate over the crumb peanut butter mixture and spread evenly. Refrigerate until the topping has set. Slice into bars and store at room temperature.

Mulled Cider
makes 1 gallon

Ingredients
1 gallon fresh-pressed apple cidar
3 medium oranges, thinly sliced
2 lemons, thinly sliced
5 cinnamon sticks, plus more for garnish (optional)
2 teaspoons whole cloves
3/4 teaspoon allspice berries
Dark rum for spiking (optional)

Bring the cider to a boil in a large pot over high heat, add the orange and lemon slices, cinnamon sticks, cloves and allspice, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the cider and keep it warm. Add rum to taste, if desired. Optionally, add a cinnamon stick to each mug before serving.

Note: If you don’t have all the spices in your pantry or simply to make your party prep easier, look for packets of mulling spices at the grocery store and follow the instructions on the package.

Chocolate Truffles

Posted on December 22, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

A twinkling tree stands above a sea of colorful presents, while a crackling fire and spiced hot apple cider tempt young and old alike. Cakes, cookies, and pies may satisfy the little ones, but these decadent chocolate truffles flavored with rye whiskey, ginger, and vanilla are a perfectly decadent treat for adults.

Templeton Rye was first produced at the onset of prohibition when residents of a small town in Iowa took the law into their own hands and produced a high-quality rye whiskey. Rising to prominence during the prohibition era, Templeton Rye became Al Capone’s whiskey of choice, and central to his bootlegging empire, hundreds of barrels per month were supplied to his gang and was distributed to speakeasies from San Francisco to Chicago to New York City.

Legend has it that a few bottles even made their way inside the walls of Alcatraz to the cell of prisoner AZ-85. The infamous small-batch Templeton Rye has returned, available legally for the first time in 85 years.

Chocolate Whiskey Truffles
makes 30 truffles

Ingredients
10 oz. semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate (62% cacao or higher), chips or chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
2 tablespoons whiskey
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa for dusting

In a medium sauce pan, heat heavy cream just to a simmer scraping down the sides every few minutes. Set aside.

Set a heat-proof bowl atop a pot of simmering water, not letting it touch the water. Add 10 oz. of chocolate and stir until melted. Pour the cream over the chocolate and gently stir until smooth. Remove from heat and add the butter, whiskey, ginger and vanilla extract and stir until the mixture is smooth.

Pour the chocolate mixture into an 8-inch baking dish and refrigerate for an hour. Remove and with a teaspoon or melon baller, scoop and roll into small balls, slightly larger than a marble and place on a parchment lined baking sheet. Be sure to roll the truffles quickly to avoid melting them with the heat of your hands. If this happens, rinse your hands in cold water and continue. After all the truffles are in formed, gently roll them in cocoa, tossing to coat. Shake off the excess and top with a sprinkle of sea salt and serve or package as gifts.

Laurent-Perrier Champagne (Series) – Ultra Brut

Posted on December 21, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

The widow Mathilde-Emilie Perrier first launched Ultra Brut in 1889, the same year that the Eiffel Tower was completed. For nearly a century Laurent-Perrier was renowned for its ‘Grand Vin Sans Sucre’ or unsweetened wine; champagne in its purest, most natural form. Then in 1981, Bernard de Nonancourt reintroduced Ultra Brut in 1981 made with a subtle blend of only the most mature, least acidic grapes that are ideal for producing such a dry champagne.

A favorite among connoisseurs, Ultra Brut has a higher percentage of chardonnay (55%) which provides a lightness that pairs nicely with seafood. I enjoy a glass on it’s own and notice intense clean aromas of light citrus combined with the aroma of honeysuckle and a pure, fresh, and delicate crisp taste.

For this piece I chose to pair it with pan-seared scallops and a champagne-tangerine reduction. The tart acidity of the tangerine glaze compliments the natural sweetness of the seared scallops, and the combination is balanced nicely by the dry, crisp minerality of the Ultra Brut.

Pan-seared scallops with Champagne-tangerine reduction
Serves 2

Ingredients
4 large scallops
1/2 cup freshly squeezed tangerine juice (I hand juiced 6 tangerines)
1/3 cup Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut Champagne
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Sea salt and cracked pepper
Fresh edible flowers (can be found in the produce section by the packaged herbs)

Preheat a small skillet on low and add the freshly squeezed tangerine juice. You will need to lightly simmer the tangerine juice til it reduces by 1/3. Once reduced, add champagne and repeat. Test the reduction by coating the back of a spoon, when a swipe of your finger leaves a line and stays that way then your reduction is finished.

Preheat another skillet on medium and add olive oil and butter to the pan. Gently but thoroughly pat the scallops dry or they will not brown. Salt both sides of the scallops, then gently sear for 3 minutes on each side.

Arrange two scallops per plate and drizzle with the tangerine reduction over the scallops, garnish with edible flowers and serve immediately with a glass of Ultra Brut Champagne.

The AIDS Foundation of Chicago’s Annual ‘World of Chocolate’ Gala

Posted on December 19, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

I was contacted some months ago by the AIDS Foundation of Chicago inviting me to judge at their ‘World of Chocolate’ event held annually at Chicago’s Union Station. 22 culinarians would compete in three categories for the best chocolate themed dishes. I tasted many, many dishes and though they ranged from sweet to savory to sippable cocktails, the event for me was bittersweet.

This year’s winners of the World of Chocolate were Mercat a la Planxa for ‘Best Savory’ Award for it’s seared scallops with white chocolate cauliflower risotto with mushrooms. The Hotel InterContinental Chicago won ‘Best Libation’ with a delicious chili chocolate martini. Life’s Sweeter Side won as Best Small Business entrant in the category ‘Tastiest Treat’ with an array of chocolate truffles, mini cake bites, and cupcakes. The Peninsula Chicago won Best Large Business entrant in the category ‘Tastiest Treat’ with macarons, chocolate hazelnut tarts, and an extraordinary white chocolate panna cotta. Uptown Brownie won the Best Sweet Award with a selection of brownies, most notably the “Elvis” which featured peanut butter and marshmallow. The People’s Choice Award went to ZED451 for Executive Chef Michael McDonald’s chocolate mascarpone roulade.

All told, the event raised more than $134,000 to support the Aids Foundation of Chicago. The proceeds will support public advocacy programs and help HIV/AIDS patients access services like medication, medical care, and housing.

Below are images from the event. Scroll down to see the winners.

Here are the winners

Best Savory: Mercat a la Planxa’s Chef de Cuisine’s Cory Morris and his team won with their seared scallops with white chocolate cauliflower risotto and mushrooms.

Best Libation: The Hotel InterContinental Chicago Executive Chef Randy Reed and his team won with a delicious chili chocolate martini.

Best Large Business Tastiest Treat: The Peninsula Chicago Executive Pastry Chef Dimitri Fayard and his team won with macarons, chocolate hazelnut tarts, and an extraordinary white chocolate pann cotta.

Best Small Business Tastiest Treat: Life’s Sweeter Side won with an array of chocolate truffles, mini cake bites, and cupcakes.

Best Sweet Award: Uptown Brownie won with a selection of brownies, most notably the “Elvis” which featured peanut butter and marshmallow.

The People’s Choice Award: ZED451’s Executive Chef Michael McDonald won for their chocolate mascarpone roulade.

A special thank you to our wonderful escort for the evening!

Laurent-Perrier Champagne (Series) – Brut Millésimé 2004 Vintage

Posted on December 16, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

Laurent-Perrier’s Brut Millésimé 2004 celebrates one of the finest vintages in recent memory. The resulting wine is a signature house style Brut that captures the unique and rare qualities of that harvest. The label Millésimé is reserved for only the greatest of harvests, and only when the grapes possess unique character is a vintage declared.

2004 was just such a harvest. The growing season followed a steady winter and a mild spring; although marked by hailstorms, the remaining crop enjoyed a warm summer that ended with a 3-week Indian summer of warm, sunny days and cool nights, ideal conditions that resulted in perfectly ripened fruit. Among the successes of that year, Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs were standouts and Laurent-Perrier’s Millésimé 2004 is a 50/50 combination of those grapes, which are then aged for at least seven years.

Featuring aromas of candied pineapple and complex notes with hints of poached yellow Mirabelle plums. The taste is well balanced and pairs nicely with white fish (pike perch or sea bass), citrus cream sauces, seafood, and fine aged cheeses.

For this piece I chose a recipe from another one of my culinary idols, Chef Thomas Keller’s ‘Whipped Brie de Meaux en Feuilleté with Tellicherry pepper and baby mâche’ from his cookbook The French Laundry. He is the first and only American-born chef to hold multiple three-star ratings from the Michelin Guide.

While living in Germany I taught myself the recipes and techniques of many renowned chefs through studying their cookbooks in a kitchen the size of a closet, cooking each dish over and over until I got it right; Chef Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry was one of my favorite subjects. This dish is how he began a composed cheese course, with elegance and simplicity. I think it is a perfect dish to serve as a starter for a holiday dinner party.

Whipped Brie de Meaux en Feuilleté with Tellicherry Pepper and Baby Mâche
Recipe from Chef Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry cookbook.
Makes 6 servings

Ingredients
12 ounces ripe Brie, chilled (try Brie de Meaux if you can find it, I used a combination of Lincet delice de Bourgogne and Saint Angel from Whole Foods)
Extra virgin olive oil
12 thin slices of baguette
1 cup baby mâche (if its not in season where you are, watercress is a good substitute)
2 cups port wine (you can substitute balsamic vinegar)
Fleur de sel French sea salt
Coarsely ground Tellicherry peppercorns (also works with coarse ground black pepper)

Balsamic Glaze or Port Wine Glaze
Note: To avoid a burnt taste and to give the acid time to mellow, simmer the wine or vinegar very slowly to reduce. This will result in a much milder flavor.

Heat the vinegar or port wine in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat until steam rises from the liquid. Reduce slowly (it shouldn’t simmer) for 2 to 3 hours to a thick syrupy glaze. There should remain only about 1/2 cup of balsamic or 1/4 cup of port wine glaze. Cool and pour into a squeeze bottle for garnishing the plates. If the glaze becomes too thick, warm the bottle in a bath of hot water until it loosens.

Preparing the Brie
Remove the rind from the brie; you should end up with about 8 ounces trimmed. Place the cold cheese into a stand mixer bowl and using the paddle attachment beat at medium speed, scraping down the sides from time to time, for about 10 minutes until the cheese is very white and creamy. Set aside.

Croutons or Crostini
Lightly coat a skillet with olive oil and skillet over medium heat. Lightly brush each slice with oil and cook for 2 minutes on each side until golden, working in batches. Set aside to cool.

Plating the final dish
Squeeze the balsamic or port glaze in an X or other design along one side of each plate. Form a quenelle using the technique below and place in the center of the plate, top with a pinch of coarse pepper and a crouton, then place another quenelle on top, and finish with more pepper and a second crouton. Repeat on each plate. Toss the mâche with olive oil then garnish each plate with a small bunch, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with fleur de sel.

How to make a quenelle
Quenelles are typically made with two spoons, but the edgeless oval created by drawing a spoon through something ice cream or mousse is a more elegant shape. To make a one-spoon quenelle, you need a cup of very hot water and a spoon. Dip the spoon in the water so it’s hot. Hold the spoon with the rounded bottom up, place the far edge of the spoon into the mixture, with the near edge close to the surface but not touching, and drag the spoon towards you. The mixture you’re scraping should curl with the shape of the spoon. As you drag, twist your wrist up until the quenelle folds over itself into an egg shape. For the best shape, drag only once through the mixture; dip and clean your spoon for each new quenelle. It takes some practice.

Laurent-Perrier Champagne (Series) – Brut NV

Posted on November 22, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

The delightfully balanced and elegant Brut NV is the signature House Champagne of Laurent-Perrier. Designated non-vintage because it contains grapes from more than one single harvest, this Champagne has been expertly blended from several excellent vintages, each lending unique characteristics. Containing 50% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier and comprising more than 55 individual crus with an average rating of 94% ensures perfect consistency and excellent quality. The result is an embodiment of Laurent-Perrier’s signature House style of freshness, lightness, and elegance.

laurent-perrier_brut_5-copyright2012-2014_30 Offering the fresh crisp acidity of pear, hints of citrus, and backed by a silky yeasty bread note, I think it is the perfect match for delicate foods. For this piece I chose to pair it with shrimp, one of my favorite proteins, marinated and served with an elegant champagne-infused beurre blanc sauce. This is a variant of Joël Robuchon’s beurre blanc recipe, altered to include more champagne of course!

With a total of 28 Michelin stars, Joël Robuchon enjoys the distinction of having more of them than any chef in the world. He is someone I really look up to because his expertise in French cuisine is unmatched. I have had the pleasure of cooking many of the recipes out of his book The Complete Robuchon and this beurre blanc recipe is one of my favorites because it is so versatile and can easily be adapted to suit your tastes.

Marinated Shrimp with a Champagne Beurre Blanc Sauce
Recipe for Beurre Blanc Sauce from Joël Robuchon The Complete Robuchon Cookbook

Ingredients for the Shrimp
24 extra large uncooked shrimp (peeled, deveined with tail intact)
1 cup of Laurent-Perrier Brut Champagne
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely minced shallots
1 tablespoon fresh chives (minced)
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon (minced)
1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley (minced)
freshly cracked black pepper

Ingredients for the Beurre Blanc Sauce
Recipe for Beurre Blanc Sauce from Joël Robuchon’s The Complete Robuchon Cookbook. I adapted the recipe slightly by adding extra 100ml of champagne.
2 sticks of unsalted cold butter (250grams) just out of the refrigerator
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
1 cup of Laurent-Perrier Brut Champagne
2 tablespoons of Champagne vinegar
Salt and white pepper to taste

Recipe

Marinate
First, marinate the shrimp. Combine the champagne, olive oil, shallots, and freshly ground pepper in a large freezer bag. Add your shrimp to the bag and shake gently to evenly coat. Marinate in the refrigerator for an hour. While the shrimp are marinating prepare your fresh herbs by mincing them. Gently combine the chopped herbs and set aside.

Beurre Blanc Sauce
While your shrimp finishing marinating prepare your beurre blanc. Cut the cold butter into small cubes and return to the refrigerator. Your butter must be cold to properly make beurre blanc sauce. Put the shallots, champagne and champagne vinegar into a small saucepan and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer the mixture for 20-25 minutes (the size of the saucepan will affect the cooking time). The liquid should reduce by about two-thirds. Allow it to cool for 5 minutes in the saucepan off the heat and then briskly beat in the butter one cube at a time. Do not add another cube until the last piece has just blended. The sauce MUST NOT BOIL. If the sauce does boil it may separate and then you will need to start all over, wasting precious Champagne! Add the salt and pepper to taste. If you like you can strain the finished sauce to remove the shallots.

Bringing the dish together
Take the marinated shrimp out of the refrigerator and drain them. Place no more than 5 of the large shrimp in a preheated, oiled skillet. Cook each shrimp 2 minutes per side then remove. You want the shrimp to be pink and opaque, but not overdone. Stand shrimp (3 per plate/person) with tails upright in the center. Spoon the beurre blanc sauce around and in between the shrimp trying to avoid getting it on the shrimp themselves. Sprinkle fresh herbs on top and serve immediately.

The Michelin Guide 2015 Star Gala – Chicago, IL

Posted on November 20, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

To most of us, the stars stand motionless in the heavens; beyond reach and imagination, we struggle to grasp the enormity of the universe and to understand our place in it. But for some the stars are more than mere points of light, they are shifting constellations of genius, and those of us lucky enough to witness the birth of these stars stand in awe of their brilliance. I’m talking of course about the Michelin stars and the chefs who pour their hearts and souls into every single plate, every single day, never knowing when a Michelin judge will walk into their restaurants.

(L to R) Executive Chef Thomas Lents of Sixteen, Executive Chef Chris Nugent of Goosefoot, Executive Chef Seth Moliterno of The Lobby at The Peninsula Hotel, Executive Chef/Owner Takashi Yagihashi of Slurping Turtle, and Spiaggia’s Executive Chef/Owner Tony Mantuano and Executive Chef Chris Marchino.

Last week, I had the honor of attending the Michelin Guide 2015 Star Gala and mingling with this year’s winners. The evening was kicked off by a very rare Champagne Master Tasting by Laurent-Perrier, featuring five labels that included the very limited Les Réserves Grand Siècle, of which only 36 bottles remain. I enjoyed tasting the work of five different Michelin-starred chefs, each presenting a signature dish from their restaurant.

As a special treat, I had the pleasure in cooking together with Spiaggia’s Executive Chef/Owner Tony Mantuano and Executive Chef Chris Marchino Sous Chef Todd Abboud. He taught me to cook and plate their signature dish of hand-rolled potato gnocchi with porcini mushrooms, browned butter, Parmigiano reggiano and black truffle. It was truly an honor to watch them work up-close and a great opportunity to show off my skill at handling a skillet. I hope they were impressed!

Goosefoot
Executive Chef Chris Nugent and his team prepared a quince and Roquefort farm egg, finished with a five-spice port wine and goji berry sauce and handmade passionfruit chocolates

Takashi and The Slurping Turtle
Executive Chef Takashi Yagihashi and his team created a soy-caramel braised pork belly in a steamed bao.

Sixteen
Executive Chef Thomas Lents and his team presented a cold-smoked foie gras with duck heart and matsutake.

The Lobby at The Peninsula
Executive Chef Seth Moliterno and his team prepared a trout “chaud-froid” with cippolini, Brussels sprouts, pear, and hibiscus.

Executive Chef/Owner Curtis Duffy of Grace Restaurant received his third Michelin star this year.

As you can see Jason and I had a wonderful time! Congratulations to all the chefs on their Michelin stars!

Three Stars:

Alinea
Grace (upgraded)

Two Stars:

42 grams (new)
L20 (closing later in 2014)
Sixteen

One Star:

Acadia
Blackbird
Boka
EL Ideas
Elizabeth
Everest
Goosefoot
The Lobby
Longman & Eagle
Moto
NAHA
North Pond
Schwa
Senza
Sepia
Spiaggia
Takashi
Topolobampo
Tru

Laurent-Perrier Champagne (Series) – Demi-Sec

Posted on October 25, 2014 by A Cook's Canvas

Laurent-Perrier Demi Sec is a blend of 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 15% Pinot Meunier. This champagne is aged for at least three years. The wine is then dosed with a liqueur made up from cane sugar dissolved in wine from the same cuvée. When you look at the brilliant and intense golden yellow you will then smell the aroma of richly expressive notes of dried fruit, almonds, and hazelnuts followed by grilled and toasted aromas.

After a few years, the nose will evolve towards deeper notes of honey and pine resin. You will find the Demi Sec to be full-bodied and generous with a rich but rounded feel. Many wine-lovers enjoy it served with a dessert or as an apéritif, but I find it is also excellent with savory foods and so have paired it with breakfast.

For the savory dish, I’m making a recipe by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, which is a reinterpretation of a childhood favorite his mother would prepare for him. A soft, poached egg and crispy toast fingers wrapped with smoked salmon and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Here is his recipe.

Poached Eggs with Parmesan and Smoked Salmon Toasts
Recipe from Jean-Georges Vongerichten

Reminiscent of a deconstructed bacon and egg sandwich, the smoky salmon is an excellent upgrade from bacon, while the nutty Parmesan compliments the richness of egg yolk.

Ingredients
Four 1/2-inch-thick slices of sourdough bread, each slice cut into four 4-by-1/2-inch rectangles
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
2 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon, cut into 8 long strips
4 large eggs

Recipe

Preheat the oven to 425°. Fill a medium skillet with water and bring to a boil. Put the bread on a baking sheet and brush all over with olive oil. Bake for about 8 minutes, or until crisp. Reserve 8 toasts. Push the remaining 8 toasts close together on the baking sheet and sprinkle the Parmesan on top in a thick layer. Bake for about 2 minutes, or until the cheese is melted. Wrap the smoked salmon around the remaining 8 toasts.

Reduce the heat under the skillet to moderately low so the water simmers. One at a time, break the eggs into a small bowl and pour them into the simmering water. Cook until the whites are just firm and the yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to paper towels and gently blot dry. Put each egg in a small, warmed bowl. Serve immediately with the Parmesan and smoked salmon toasts.

Framboise Charlottes

Recipe from Tartlette, makes 4-6 individual cakes

Ingredients

For the Angel Food Cake:
18 egg whites
1 pinch salt
1 1/2 (300grams) cups sugar
1 cup (140grams) cake flour
1/2 cup (60grams) confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 pound raspberries
Powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350F/175C

Sift together the cake flour and confectioners sugar then place to one side. By hand or in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip egg whites with a pinch of salt until foamy. Gradually add sugar while beating, and continue to beat until very stiff. To test, take the whisk, turn it upside down and the stiff peaks shouldn’t fall.

Carefully fold the egg whites into the flour mixture along with the lemon zest. Pour into a 10-inch, ungreased tube cake pan and bake for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and invert the pan and set it over a longneck bottle such as a water or wine bottle to cool. It is very important to invert the pan as it cools, because the weight of the cake itself is enough to cause it to collapse if left upright on the counter. Turned upside-down, the weight of the cake will keep it tall and light.

Release the cake from the pan when it is completely cooled. Cut four to six 2-inches thick slices. Insert a 3-inch cookie cutter in the cake and run a knife around the cutter to form one cake base. Hollow out each cake with a melon baller. Repeat these steps for the other slices of cake. Place the powdered sugar on a large plate and roll the cakes in it to coat then set aside.

Crème Pâtissière (Pastry Creme)
Recipe from Ladurée Sucré

Ingredients

1 vanilla pod
1 3/4 cup (400 milliliters) whole milk
4 egg yolks
1 cup (80 grams) of caster sugar
1/4 (30 grams) cornstarch
2 tablespoons (25 grams) of butter

Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the inside to remove the seeds. Pour the milk into a saucepan, add the pod and seeds and bring the milk slowly to a simmer. If it comes to a boil or fast simmer you risk burning your milk. Remove from heat, cover and let steep for 15 minutes.

In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until the mixture whitens slightly. Stir in the cornstarch. Remove the vanilla pod from the milk and pour 1/3 of the hot milk mixture to the egg mixture while beating vigorously with a whisk, which prevents the eggs curdling from the heat. Pour the liquid back into the pan and bring to a light boil, whisking and making sure to scrape the sides of the pan as it thickens to a pudding-like consistency.

Remove from heat and pour into a bowl. Allow the mixture to cool for 10 minutes until it is just warm, and then gently mix in the butter. Pour the mixture into a bowl and place a piece of plastic wrap across the surface to prevent a skin from forming and let cool completely before using; about 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Fill the cavities of each cake and garnish with fresh raspberries.

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