Café des Architectes at Sofitel Chicago Water Tower Hotel.

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“Bonjour!” was the first thing I heard when I entered the luxurious lobby of the Sofitel Water Tower Hotel. The relaxed atmosphere and attentive staff are very welcoming and though I am tempted to linger awhile, my focus today is on the hotel’s crowning jewel, the restaurant Café des Architectes.

The dining room has an upscale European contemporary style, and is subtly sub-divided into smaller seating areas each offering a unique combination of colors and finishes, creating an impression of intimacy without physically dividing the airy, light-filled space. A clever row of pendant lights which are reminiscent of French chef’s toques convey the French theme in an understated and elegant way. To my eye they are an appetizer, and anticipation starts to build.

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Known for contemporary French cuisine with a twist, Café des Architectes’ Executive Chef Greg Biggers has created a stunning menu built upon fresh local ingredients, fine imported French cheeses, fresh seafood, and most impressively, an extensive array of artisanal cheeses and charcuterie made right here in-house!

To the casual restaurant guest, house-made meats and cheeses may sound simple, but it is important to note that Chef Biggers had first to acquire permits and licenses to certify and operate a creamery, not to mention constructing a humidity-controlled cave to age the charcuterie and cheeses!

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1st Course
Foie Gras Torchon with green onion puree, apple-cardamon jam, beet puree, brioche crisp

Perhaps the most delicate foie gras I’ve ever tasted, soft, buttery, and rich which is balanced by bright, aromatic spring onion and a wonderfully tart heirloom-style sweet apple cardamom jam and earthy-sweet beet puree. Apple and onion interact wonderfully together in this dish and together with the delicate foie gras, the combination is surprisingly delicious with the crisp, paper-thin slices of brioche offering textural contrast. While foie gras can sometimes come across as fatty, this particular preparation is light and creamy thanks to the long, delicate Torchon preparation.  

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2nd Course
Chestnut Provisions Tasting; Lomo, soppressatta, miso finnichionna, chevre, tomme, tellagio, brioche, sassparilla mustard, pickled cauliflower
An exquisitely presented array of delicious and authentic flavors, the individual selections vary by season; my tasting today consisted of soppressata, miso finocchiona, chevre, tomme, tellagio, sarsparilla mustard, pickled cauliflower, and toasted brioche. While several of these are familiar, a few are new to me and the sassparilla mustard is a unique twist on an essential condiment. Delicately sliced cured meats and cheeses with freshly baked bread is something most Europeans enjoy every morning, I would not hesitate to order this for breakfast with café au lait.

The quality and taste of Chestnut Provisions are quite remarkable, and will be featured in an upcoming piece that goes into further detail about the range offered and their preparation.

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3rd Course
Braised Pork Belly with artichoke puree, winter vegetable, roasted garlic jus
A classic combination of juicy and tender slow-braised pork belly with roasted vegetables. Blue potato, carrots, and brussel sprouts complement the deliciously deep meaty flavor of fork-tender pork belly; and are further enriched with a velvety artichoke puree and an umami boost of roasted garlic-infused jus. A rich and decadent combination, this is comfort food at its finest.

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4th Course
Poached Maine Lobster with butternut squash puree, truffle foam, baby vegetables
A generous portion of perfectly tender poached lobster with a natural briny flavor, rich squash puree and a delicately earthy truffle foam enhance the rich flavor of lobster without competing with it. Tender roasted baby vegetables, the parsnip was particularly good with seafood.

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When it comes to pastries and decadent desserts the kitchen is held up by Executive Pastry Chef Anna Young.

5th Course
Sticky Toffee Pudding with blood Orange, buttermilk, praline ice cream
The name of this delicious dish nearly says it all!  Rich, gooey, buttery, sticky toffee pudding served with a palate refreshing combination of creamy praline ice cream, sweet blood orange gelée and tart segments of fresh mandarin orange which are delicious with a dollop of light, creamy whipped buttermilk.

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6th Course
Chocolate Sphere with butter ice cream, caramelized cocoa nibs, salted caramel
An intriguing molded chocolate sphere reminds me of a birds nest with two “eggs” of buttery ice cream in a pool of rich salted caramel; an edible flowerbed of incredibly moist and rich chocolate cake studded with caramel cream and ice cream topped with edible flowers and crunchy cocoa nibs. Each element was executed perfectly and the result is a stunning plate that truly tastes as good as it looks.
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7th Course
Tower of Desserts
A striking architectural tower of delicate jewels perched dramatically on glass beams, an impressive presentation that literally elevates the art of dessert.

Dulce chocolate macaron
Macarons are by far my favorite French treat, and the timeless combination of rich dulce flavors and decadent chocolate ganache are at the top of my list. Perfectly smooth shells and just the right level of moisture gives them a delicate crunch and tender interior without being crumbly. Nothing beats a fresh macaron.
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Rubies Tea Truffle
A shining deep red chocolate shell tipped with gold accents and filled with a rich ganache infused with the flavors of black tea, strawberries, raspberries, cherries, and rose petals. These should come in boxes for valentines day!

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Apricot cherry nougat
There is something special about nougat that defies its simple appearance. Delicate, chewy, pillowy goodness studded with nuts and bits of dried fruit, I’m a sucker for this treat! Though it is mass produced (‘mandorlato’, with almonds) and sold in most shops across western Europe, the fresh-made version is something else entirely. My favorite source while living in Europe was a little Parisian candy shop in the 9th arrondissement called A l’Etoile d’Or; on this side of the pond, it’s Chef Young’s authentic version. Rich with floral honey notes, cherries, and apricots, this is something I’ve missed and look forward to enjoying again.
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Blueberry pâte de fruit
A traditional French favorite that can take on almost any flavor, this one highlights the deep flavor and delicately tart profile of blueberries in a sweet, sugary gelled confection with a tender yet dense consistency. Pectin gels are difficult to get right and can be gummy, these had just the right consistency; firm to the tooth yet tender and melting.

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An elegant menu, a passionate team of professionals, and an arsenal of artisanal pleasures make Café des Architectes a magnificent place to dine. Located in a modern architectural gem that is steps away from Chicago’s finest attractions yet conveniently situated on a calm street, the hotel and restaurant are easily accessible to locals and a magnet for visitors. The exquisite dining room is equally beautiful day and night, and make for a memorable dining experience all year round.

My sincere thanks to Chef Biggers and Chef Young for their hospitality and culinary expertise, and to their staff for the wonderfully attentive service.

Shadowing Executive Chef Dominique Tougne of Chez Moi and LaVoute Bistro & Bar

alacarte_shadowing_executive chef_dominiquetougne35_acookscanvas-copyright2012-2016_66Those who know me and longtime readers know that I dream of being a Chef one day, having started my site years ago while living in southwestern Germany. I got my start with a stack of cookbooks that my husband gave me as inspiration to start pursuing my dream. If you had told me back then that in 5 years I would be writing about Chefs who’ve trained under the legendary authors of that stack of books, that I would have the chance to watch them in the kitchen and taste their work, I would not have believed you.

Fast forward 5 years, and I have in fact written about and photographed many Chefs, attended dozens of glamorous culinary events, I’ve even attended a star gala and met the great people at Michelin guide! Though I have written about all kinds of cuisines and restaurants, lately my focus has shifted back to when I started writing about French food, and recently had the opportunity to shadow for a day one of Joël Robuchon’s own pupils, Executive Chef Domonique Tougne of Chez Moi in Chicago, a supporter, organizer, and participant in À la carte Chicago 2015.

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We met first thing at 8am at La Fornette for breakfast while Chef Dominique briefs me on the schedule for today. I enjoy a black coffee and pain au chocolat while Chef Dominique explains that La Fournette supplies his restaurant with breads, and in return Chez Moi prepares salads and small dishes for La Fournette. I’ve known of this bakery for a while as one of the few that come highly recommended by European expats living in Chicago. It was the first place we found shortly after moving back from Germany that made really good, authentic breads and pastry. The level of quality and authenticity are no surprise, given that the family who runs La Fournette came from Strasbourg in the Alsace region of eastern France. They came to America with the intention of bringing their generations of skill in breadmaking to the people of Chicago, who eagerly buy up all of the delicious French breads, patisserie, and macarons that La Fournette can produce.

NBC5 News Segment with Marion Brooks
Chef Dominique will film a news segment at NBC 5 Chicago with a French cooking demonstration while talking about À la carte Chicago. We start at Chez Moi gathering ingredients and supplies for the segment and head to NBC tower to shoot the segment.

When we arrive at NBC we head up to the studio to setup and Chef Dominique starts to prep the dishes he will promote, and as he works various members of the news team stop by to greet the Chef and he attracts a small crowd who gather to watch him cook and talk about À la carte with news anchor Marion Brooks. The staff at NBC were very friendly and have a lot of fun reporting the news, and I had a really nice time getting a behind-the-scenes look at how these segments are produced.
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alacarte_shadowing_executive chef_dominiquetougne8_acookscanvas-copyright2012-2016_66On the way back to Chez Moi to drop off the equipment, I had a chance to ask the Chef some questions about his background and training. He has had quite a distinguished career which began at Ècole Culinaire de Blois, going on to study with leading French chefs including Jacques Sénéchal and Joël Robuchon, both of whom shaped Chef Tougne’s culinary style. His first internship was with Chef Sénéchal in Paris at the Hotel Nikko’s Michelin-Starred Pont Mirabeau and Les Celebrités; after graduation he rose to become Chef de Partie and eventually Sous Chef before being recruited by Chef Robuchon who took him on as his protégé as executive Sous Chef at Le Relais du Parc. I asked Chef Tougne what it was like to work for such a legend, he simply said that he doensn’t have the words to describe his high respect for Chef Robuchon, that he is a very kind man and gifted in his attention to detail.

We talked about cookbooks, I mentioned that I started with reading Larousse Gastronomique, Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry, and Joël Robuchon’s The Complete Robuchon. He said that he had something to show me when we arrived at Chez Moi that I would appreciate. Would it be a hidden library of secret French cookbooks? A miraculous piece of cookware that only French chefs can own? I was totally intrigued!
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We arrive at the restaurant and Chef immediately meets with his Sous Chef with precise instructions for the evening and asks me to follow him through the kitchen to another dining room whose walls held glass-cased Chef’s coats given to him by his mentors, some of the world’s most renowned chefs. Autographed coats from Paul Bocuse, Joël Robuchon, Jacques Sénéchal, Jacques Pepin; I was totally speechless, and the Chef had a huge smile on his face. He went on to tell me that when these were gifts given to him by these chefs, all friends of his, on their visits to Chicago. Each prompted a story; Joel Robuchon and Paul Bocuse had come to Chicago and prepared food for a reception and three banquets in the course of only four days; while Jacques Pepin was in town he celebrated his birthday at Bistro 110. I was overtaken with emotion and tears started to well up. I felt for the first time that I am in the right place and meeting the right people, and studying the right books; that if I have a future the culinary world, I had chosen the right influences to guide me.  Cooking from their recipes and studying their techniques, shooting photos of the journey is much more than a hobby and the attention my work has received has brought me into contact with the society of great chefs. Someday I’ll earn my own collection of chef’s coats, and maybe one from Chef Tougne will be among them.
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The next stop was a visit to La Fournette’s warehouse. Though all of the breads and pastries at the bakery are made in-house, all of the baked goods that La Fournette makes for Chicago area restaurants and coffee shops are hand-made and baked here. Chef Dominique tells me a bit about his friend Chef Pierre Zimmerman, who runs La Fournette with his wife and two sons. Though Chef Zimmerman was currently traveling in France, I had the chance to meet his two sons who operate the bakery and warehouse. The Zimmerman family came to America from the Alsatian village of Schnersheim when they sold their 110 year old family business in 2009, the Boulangerie Zimmerman. Chef Pierre Zimmerman, world baking champion, teaches L’Art de Ia Boulangerie at Chicago’s French Pastry School with family friends Jacquy Pfeiffer and Sebastien Canonne, co-founders of the school.  His vision for La Fournette is to recreate his family’s Alsatian bakery, and produce authentic Alsatian taste and quality.
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When we arrive at the warehouse, one of Chef Zimmerman’s sons greets us and takes us on a tour. I am immediately struck by how bright and clean the whole facility is, and I see a team of pastry chefs busily preparing traditional Buche de Noel; the beautiful log-shaped, flourless French holiday cakes. Everything here is made by hand, including breads, pastries, and macarons. Tasting as we walk through, we learn that all of the breads are made with a mother starter yeast culture that has been handed used in the family’s bakery continuously for generations.
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La Voûte Bistro and Bar
Next we visit Chef Tougne’s other restaurant, La Voute in the luxury boutique hotel La Banque in Homewood. Located in the historic former Homewood State Bank built in 1925, the stately landmark was a center for local commerce until 2013 when it was sold and renovated into a beautifully French styled hotel and restaurant. The restaurant is situated in the oldest section of the building and makes use of the former bank’s vaults and safe deposit boxes as decorative architectural elements. The lobby is very chic and hung with gorgeous artwork by noted German graphic artist Catrin Welz Stein, and the feel of the space is majestic and elegant.
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We have come today so Chef Tougne can coordinate two private events and the dinner service. First Chef gives me a tour of the kitchen and we sit down for a bite to eat; croque monsieur (one of my favorites!), sticky toffee pudding with date caramel cake, poached dates, bananas, and toffee sauce, and a glass of sauvignon blanc. This evening the bistrot is hosting two parties in addition to the regular evening service, and Chef heads into the kitchen with his staff. Trailing closely behind, I see large pots of stocks and soups simmering, cooks prepping ingredients, and a waitstaff meeting on the evenings menus. As I snap a few photos of the dining room and private rooms, I see the Chef visiting tables and talking with his patrons to ask how they are, and if they are enjoying their meals. The ability to be demanding and in the kitchen one moment, and warm and personal in the dining room the next is critical to running a restaurant, and Chef Tougne is just as friendly in dealing with his staff. His broad smile and frequent laughter are contagious, and it shows in the moods of those he employs.

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Just as the table settings are completed, guests start to arrive for the evening’s events; a birthday party of 20 and a dinner for 28 hosted by local brewery Lagunitas which I was invited to join. Chef Dominique paired Lagunitas Maximus beer with duck and pork rillettes, cornichons, and dijon mustard. The next course was Launitas Censored beer paired with pan-roasted salmon, ratatouille, and basil infused olive oil. The last beer was Lagunitas Sucks with petite brie en croute and endive salad and a sticky toffee pudding for dessert. A delicious menu of successful pairings showing that beer and French cuisine can work really well together.
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Most of us think Chefs spend most days in a kitchen cooking, but the truth is that in addition to leading the kitchen staff, there are meetings and press events to attend, menus and parties to plan, and sometimes an appearance on TV to promote culinary events. It was a surprise to me that the business side of being a Chef can be every bit as demanding as running a kitchen, and shadowing Chef Tougne for a day really opened my eyes to the broad skillset one needs to succeed as a Chef. Many thanks to my dear friend Chef Dominique for inviting me to spend a day with him and sharing so much about his life.  We’ve had a hard time re-integrating back into our home country and it helps to connect with people who not only share my interests, but also know how it feels to start over in a new country and integrate into a new culture. The multitude of Chefs and cooks that are drawn to Chicago from all over the world are truly a gift to the people of Chicago, and add so much vibrance and flavor to our beautiful city.

Passport to France Gala in Chicago

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Though the tragic events in Paris on November 13th cast a shadow over À la carte Chicago, the spirits of my French colleagues gradually recovered as hope and determination replaced fear. One week later the 31st annual Passport to France event began with an uncorking of emotions in a celebration of French culture and resolve.
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For more than three decades the French-American Chamber of Commerce Chicago has celebrated each passing season with the introduction of the first French wine of the year, Beaujolais Nouveau. What began as a gathering of Francophones and Francophiles celebrating the young wine has grown into an extravagant showcase of the best in French cuisine, wines, spirits, and culture.

Held at the historic and prestigious Union League Club of Chicago, this year’s event occupied two sumptuously appointed ballrooms hosting more than 50 Chefs, restaurants, and vendors offering the finest French indulgences in an atmosphere of friendship and celebration.
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Upon arrival we were warmly greeted by the guest of honor, a 2015 Beaujolais Nouveau. Light in body but rich in fruit and offering a crisp minerality and fresh acidity, this year’s first wine was an excellent expression of the style and a reassuring way to start the evening.
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For the next three hours we circulated through both ballrooms, greeting friends and colleagues while enjoying delicious contemporary French cuisine and a number of exquisite French wines. Sweets and savories mixed it up in a swirling experience of flavors. New to the event this year was the addition of a spirits lounge which offered guests a generous sampling of spirits from absinthe’s and cognacs to vodkas and pastis, and everything in between.
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A shining example of why the French table is truly King of the culinary world, the Passport to France is a reminder that French cuisine evolved deep inside the gated mansions of the bourgeoisie, locked away from the French people until the revolution set it free and released the spirit of celebrating every day to the masses.

Luncheon with French Consul General Vincent Floreani

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I recently had the pleasure of attending a private luncheon for the Consul General of France, Mr. Vincent Floreani. The event was part of À la carte Chicago, a celebration of contemporary French cuisine and culture. Fifteen guests gathered at Chez Moi in Lincoln Park to experience a four-course menu prepared by Executive Chef Dominique Tougne, featuring some of the Consul General’s favorite dishes. Before each course was served, Consul General Floreani introduced them, explaining what makes each dish special, and why they hold meaning for him.
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First Course
Porcini and Foie Gras Risotto with Red Wine Sauce
Wine: Chateau Loronde Desormes, Bordeaux Superior ’10
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Consul General Vincent Floreani is part Italian and part French, and so he has a great love of risotto, which was one of his favorites as a child. What makes a good risotto is a very careful cooking that leaves just a slight crunch in the rice, to contrast with the creamy texture. Chef Dominique’s risotto was perfectly cooked, demonstrating the ideal combination of textures.

Second Course
Pan Seared Maine Scallops, Ratatouille, Safran Beurre Blanc
Wine: Triennes, Viognier Sante Fleure ’13 (Daniel Boulud’s Sommelier recommended)
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In France, scallops are often served on special occasions, these lovelies came from Maine where the season runs from October to May. Ratatouille is a classic stew of rustic vegetables, a dish that reminds the Consul General of his childhood, a dish he grew up eating, and which even today is very popular among French children.

Third Course
Classic French Camembert, Baguette
Wine: Francois Montand, Brut Rose, NV
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Camembert cheese, which comes from Normandy, was given to French soldiers along with a baguette as a daily ration, and was all that sustained them during battles along with a daily ration of wine. In France today, nearly 320 baguettes are consumed every second.

Dessert
Vanilla Crème Brûlée
Wine: Chateau Haut Charmes, Sauternes ’10
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Though the French, the Spanish, and the British each claim to have invented this delectably creamy dessert, the French enjoy it the most. As it is found on nearly every menu in France, it must therefore truly be a French invention. The classic crunchy layer of caramelized sugar is difficult to achieve properly, but the secret to a perfectly glass-like consistency is to use brown sugar instead of white sugar; the hint of molasses improves melting and lends deep, rich flavor.

Not only was the meal spectacular, but in addition to dining alonside the Consul General I enjoyed the company of a table full of native French speakers. Though I couldn’t follow the entire conversation, for my sake they very graciously spoke mostly in English. The feeling was very familiar and if only for a few hours, I felt like I was back in Europe.
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Biography
Consul General of France in Chicago Mr. Vincent Floreani

Vincent Floreani became Consul General of France in Chicago with jurisdiction for the 13 midwestern states on August 23, 2014. Prior to this assignment, Mr. Floreani was Deputy Spokesman and Deputy Director of Communications and Press at the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs; and assistant director of the press since 2011.

Vincent Floreani is an alumnus of l’Ecole nationale d’administration (ENA). Upon graduating from the ENA in 1999 he was assigned to the United Nations and international organizations Division, Sub-Department of Political Affairs in Paris. His responsibilities included Iraq, Libya, and reform of the Security Council.

From 2002 to 2005, as an expert in the Security Council, Vincent Floreani served as First Secretary at the Permanent Mission of France to the United Nations in New York.
He became Head of the Press and Communication Office at the French Embassy in London in 2005, and in 2007 served in the British Department for International Development as exchange diplomat.

From 2008 to 2011, he was Deputy Head of Mission at the Embassy of France in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates).

Earlier in his career, he served in Romania, Indonesia, Kenya and Uganda.

Vincent Floreani is married and has three sons.

À la carte Chicago Food Festival

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In November, more than 35 local restaurants and organizations participated in the first annual À la carte Chicago. An 11-day celebration of French food, wine, and culture, with menus and events designed to excite and inspire, and A Cook’s Canvas was invited to cover several of the events.

Restaurants across the city, most but not all specializing in French food, offered special À la carte menus created just for the event, giving diners an opportunity to sample both classical and contemporary French cuisines at fixed menu prices. There were also cooking workshops, wine tastings, a recipe contest hosted on social media, and activities for the whole family. The 11-day event was timed to close with the French-American Chamber of Commerce’s 31st annual Passport to France event, an evening of French wines, spirits, food, and culture.

I had the opportunity (and great pleasure!) to cover several of the events and to work with the incredibly friendly people at à la carte Chicago, the Alliance Française de Chicago, the Consulat Général de France à Chicago, and French-American Chamber of Commerce of Chicago.

The highlights for me were of course the fantastic French foods and specially crafted menus, so here is a summary of my experiences.

Café des Architectes at SOFITEL Chicago Water Tower – Executive Chef Greg Biggers, Executive Pastry Chef Anna Young

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alacarte_chicago15-2_ acookscanvas-copyright2012-2016_62Brioche Bostock: Compressed Pears, Pear Sorbet, Almond Cream, Vanilla Cranberries
alacarte_chicago14_ acookscanvas-copyright2012-2015_62Chocolate Cremeaux: Preserved Berries, Shortbread Crumble, Mixed Berry Ice Cream, Dulce Tuile
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Shaw’s Crab House – Yves Roubaud Executive Chef/Proprietor of Shaw’s Crab House Division
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Pan Roasted Atlantic Cod with Celery Root Puree and Red Wine Sauce
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Chez Moi – Executive Chef Dominique Tougne
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Brie en Croute with Petite Salad
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Crème Brûlée

Events: Being a chef with Chef Madelaine Bullwinkle at Alliance Française de Chicago 
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The Alliance Française de Chicago is a wonderful organization dedicated to the study of French language, cultural exchange, and friendship between Americans and French speaking peoples. Not only for Francophones, the Alliance is open and welcoming to anyone who is curious about French language and culture, and hosts a busy calendar of events each year to bring together our two cultures.
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I had the pleasure of attending a cooking class hosted by Chef Madelaine Bullwinkle, where she prepared three traditional French classics dating from the time of the revolution, which were featured in the 1987 Dutch film Babette’s Feast; Immediately following the class was a screening in the Alliance’s auditorium of the film, a feast for the eyes and the soul that recounts the hardships of a young woman Chef from Paris who was displaced by the war and relocated to a dreary remote seaside village in Denmark, where she opens the eyes and the minds of her hosts with a sumptuous Parisian feast normally reserved for royalty. Chez Madelaine has run a French cooking school for more than 30 years, and regularly organizes trips to France to help her students uncover the mysteries of French cuisine.
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À la carte is truly a chance to indulge in French cuisine. Many of the participating Chefs have trained under the world’s most renowned French Chefs providing a level of authenticity that would be hard to experience without a passport and a plane ticket.

Although I didn’t have a chance to visit all of the participating restaurants, the quality and effort put into planning the events and creating the À la carte menus is quite impressive, providing diners with a chance to sample world-class culinary artistry at fixed menu prices making it one of the best values on the Chicago culinary calendar. I look forward to many more years of enjoying À la carte Chicago and can’t wait to see what next year’s festivities have in store!

Please visit À la carte website for all participating chefs, restaurants, and events.

Classic Boeuf Bourguignon

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Several years ago we celebrated our anniversary in Paris, where we stayed in a tiny yet charming apartment in the 6th arrondisement, spending a whole week exploring the sights, the sounds, and of course the flavors of La Ville Lumière; the City of Light.

On our first evening we took a walk along the Seine when it started raining suddenly. As we ran up the stairs to street level, the brisk sprinkle quickly turned into a heavy downpour, so we darted across the street and ducked into the first restaurant we came to.

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Without having researched the place head of time, we didn’t know what we would find and to be honest, our expectations were not that high. However, after only a brief glance at the menu we both instantly knew what we would order; a soupe à l’oignon, boeuf bourguignon, crème brûlée for dessert, and a mid-list bottle of Bordeux to wash it all down. The menu did have more sophisticated options, but this was after all our first day in Paris, and besides we were both cold and wet and so the allure of comfort food, though touristy, was too much to resist.

That particular meal, modest by comparison to others we’ve since had in Paris, will always hold a special place in our hearts. From time to time, especially in the fall when the weather starts to turn cold, we recreate it at home and it always takes us back to that first wonderful evening in the City of Light.

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The epitome of comfort food, boeuf bourguignon is a peasant stew that uses red wine, aromatic herbs, and a long, slow simmer to transform tough, inexpensive cuts of beef and simple vegetables into the most satisfying, savory, and comforting meal one can experience.  This is why such a humble dish is standard in cafes and restaurants not only across France, but in French restaurants all over the world. Best prepared over the course of a day, the slower it is cooked, the more delicious it becomes, and the rich flavors continue to develop over the next several days in the refrigerator, so as the week goes on the stew becomes even more enjoyable; this is one leftover meal that never sits around long enough in our house to be thrown out.

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Deeply traditional yet totally versatile, Julia Child’s version is a classic and my favorite of the half dozen or so recipes I’ve tried.

Boeuf Bourguignon
Recipe from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking

Ingredients
6 ounces (170 g) of chunk bacon
3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
3 pounds (1360 g) lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 carrot, sliced
1 onion, sliced
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups red wine, young and full-bodied (like Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhone or Burgundy)
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups brown beef stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves mashed garlic
1/2 teaspoon thyme
A crumbled bay leaf
18 to 24 white onions, small
3 1/2 tablespoons butter
Herb bouquet (3 celery stalks, 4 parsley sprigs, 3 bay leaves, 2 thyme sprigs, tied together)
1 pound mushrooms, fresh and quartered

Preparation
Remove bacon rind and cut into lardons (sticks one quarter-inch thick and one and a half inches long). Simmer rind and lardons for ten minutes in one and a half quarts water. Drain and dry. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (230C).

Sauté lardons in one tablespoon of the olive oil in a flameproof casserole pan over moderate heat for two to three minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.

Dry beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Heat fat in casserole until almost smoking. Add beef, a few pieces at a time, and sauté until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the lardons. In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the excess fat.Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with one half teaspoon of salt and one quarter teaspoon of pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for four minutes.

Toss the meat again and return to oven for four minutes (this browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust). Remove casserole and turn oven down to 325 degrees F (160C). Stir in wine and two to three cups stock, just enough so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs and bacon rind. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove.
Cover casserole and set in lower third of oven. Regulate heat so that liquid simmers very slowly for three to four hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.

While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms. Heat one and a half tablespoons butter with one and one-half tablespoons of the oil until bubbling in a skillet. Add onions and sauté over moderate heat for about ten minutes, rolling them so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect them to brown uniformly. Add one half cup of the stock, salt and pepper to taste and the herb bouquet. Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but hold their shape, and the liquid has evaporated. Remove herb bouquet and set onions aside.

Wipe out skillet and heat remaining oil and butter over high heat. As soon as you see butter has begun to subside, indicating it is hot enough, add mushrooms. Toss and shake pan for four to five minutes. As soon as they have begun to brown lightly, remove from heat. When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and lardons to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms on top.

Skim fat off sauce in saucepan. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about two and a half cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons stock. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour sauce over meat and vegetables. Cover and simmer two to three minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in casserole, or arrange stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles or rice, and decorated with parsley.

Chateau Grand Traverse Winery and Bed & Breakfast

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With the planting of the first wine grapes in northern Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula back in 1974, Ed O’Keefe Jr. drew much criticism and stirred a controversy about the region’s suitability to wine growing. With the guidance of some of Europe’s foremost experts, he had selected a plot of land perched on a hilltop that offered a perfect combination of bright sunlight, excellent drainage, and the temperature moderating effect of Grand Traverse bay. This location, planted with carefully selected European varietals has proven that northern Michigan can produce wines of exceptional quality, a fact that Chateau Grand Traverse has demonstrated for over 4 decades with a broad selection of fine wines including some really outstanding Rieslings.

 

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The tasting room is a large, lodge inspired space with a long tasting bar that can accommodate many guests with a friendly and knowledgeable staff who provide excellent guidance as they lead them through the extensive wine list. Of the dozen or so wines that I tasted, all European styles with a German influence, three Rieslings stood out as particularly good; a dry, a semi-dry, and a late-harvest Riesling that took me back to the wine village of southern Germany that we used to call home.

The Winery

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Dry Riesling – A classic-style dry Riesling, with crisp flavors of green apple and honeycomb. This expressive dry white wine is crisp, fruity and fresh. Its assertive and clean style is an ideal match for most seafood, shellfish, or delicate cream sauce.

Semi-Dry Riesling – A Semi-dry crisp white wine with medium sweetness flavors of citrus and fresh fruit abound, balanced with crisp acidity and a lasting finish. From the basic stir fry, barbecue, or even Indian chutney, the fruit undertones will enhance a broad range of the most unique meals. Serve slightly chilled.

Late Harvest Riesling – A sweeter style Riesling with rich flavors of crisp citrus and wonderful acidity. This exceptional Late Harvest Riesling from Michigan abounds with dazzling fruit and crisp citrus flavors balanced with a naturally sweet finish. This after-dinner wine pairs perfectly with cheese and fruit as well as roast pork, glazed ham, poultry, or most barbecued fare.

The Bed & Breakfast

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Nestled in a wooded area overlooking the extensive 120+ acre vineyard is the Inn at Chateau Grand Traverse, a luxuriously appointed, cozy yet modern 6-room guest house that offers wine travelers a quiet, comfortable, and elegant accommodation among the vines. Each room offers a private terrace and is the perfect place to enjoy a bottle of wine while enjoying the vineyard ambiance. With extensive common areas including amenities such as fitness center with sauna, large, comfortable seating areas with large screen televisions and an elegant dining area, the Inn is ideal for hosting private events. Each morning the self-serve breakfast room is stocked with a selection of fresh fruits, baked goods, quiche, yogurt, gourmet coffee, and everything else you need to start the day.

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Though many consider the Michigan wine trail a warm weather attraction, the winters up here are equally beautiful. After all of the grapes have been harvested and the vines are bare, the legendary annual snowfall transforms northern Michigan into an exciting destination for downhill and cross-country skiing; while the tasting room at Chateau Grand Traverse with a fireplace blazing is open to wine tourists offering seasonal hot mulled fruit wines to ward off the winter chill.

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The Chateau Grand Traverse (231/223-7355) located at 12239 Center Road, Old Mission Peninsula, produces award-winning Riesling, Chardonnay and Gamay. The tasting room is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm and Sunday noon to 5pm.

 

L. Mawby Green with French Style Cuban Sandwiches (Series)

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Local foods, and particularly street foods, connect us deeply with the places we live. Often consisting of humble ingredients and prepared in an efficient manner, they straddle a line between convenience and fine dining, often relying on a powerful punch of flavor from a key ingredient or special condiment for authenticity, and delivered in an easy to enjoy, convenient meal.

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Cuban sandwiches aren’t something I grew up with; my husband, on the other hand, spent summer vacations in Florida as a child and enjoys Latin, and Cuban foods, and was shocked when I told him I didn’t know what a Cuban sandwich was.

Originating in the 1880’s, the sandwich was a variation of a ham and cheese, originally known as a “Cuban pressed” or a “Cuban mix” and was offered in cafes that catered to cigar workers in both in Havana as well as in Key West. A classic combination of ham, Swiss cheese, and mustard with the addition of roast pork, pickles, and sometimes salami on either Cuban or French bread, the flavors struck me as a natural if not particularly Latin combination. The basis of the Cuban; ham, Swiss, and mustard, remind me of the French classic croque monsieur, and set me wondering which food culture, if any, could lay claim to this classic combination of flavors. The answer, of course, is that some combinations are universal and timeless.

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I often cook, and write about European food, and especially French food, so I was intrigued at the common thread between this delicious yet foreign (to me) Cuban sandwich and my beloved French, open-faced croque. The comparison lead me to the conclusion that a French-ified Cuban could and would be a thing, a new variation with flavors familiar to two cultures but belonging to neither.

First, I sought to identify what characteristics are distinctly Cuban, which are the basic list of ingredients and a good pressing on a non-ribbed grilling surface; a true Cubano bears no grilling marks other than a crisply browned crust and dense, flattened shape. I focused on the ingredients themselves and explored substitutes; here is the story of the experiment, and where it ultimately lead.

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It began on a typical Tuesday night spent pressing Cubans as we sometimes do, using French bread instead of true Cuban bread, which can be difficult to come by. The ham is typically the boiled type but substituting smoked ham adds another dimension of flavor. Swiss cheese didn’t seem like an authentic Cuban ingredient, so I tried a rich, young raclette which is would add a tangy, nutty taste and creamy texture with it’s legendary melting ability, giving a thoroughly southern French/Swiss flavor. The typical plain yellow mustard was an easy target for improvement, France being the birthplace of powerfully rich mustard’s, most notably Dijon which is deeply flavored with white wine and horseradish; I chose an exquisite Dijon made with Chablis wine from Maille. Plain dill pickles are replaced by thinly sliced cornichons, also from Maille, which though small in size, pack a lot more texture and flavor than big, floppy dill slices. I added my own pickled red onions made with red wine vinegar and a touch of sugar and thinly sliced, fresh radish for crunchy texture and a nod to Parisian cafe style.

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The final ingredient, the one that distinctly separates a Cuban from a plain ham and cheese, is the roast pork. Being big fans of braising pork instead of roasting, we have experimented with variations on Cuban pork braised with lime and orange halves and fresh oregano, always tasty, but I substituted a clean braised pork inspired by David Chang Momofuku house Momofuku Pork Shoulder House Recipe, which is rubbed with a 1:1 mixture of sugar and salt; I added fresh thyme, white wine, and garlic to turn it French then slowly braised it until it fell apart. The result is meltingly tender and juicy with a clean pork flavor with hints of garlic and thyme; and though the recipe requires slow cooking over 8 hours or more, it can be made a day in advance and freezes well.

I split the French rolls, buttered the outsides and slathering each half inside with Dijon, then layered the ingredients as you would a typical Cuban, topping with cornichons, pickled onion, and radish slices. I then grilled them in a shallow, hot cast iron pan, pressing with a smaller cast iron pan to ensure a crisp crust and the characteristically dense texture and Cuban shape. The results were astounding.

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Cubans are often enjoyed with Cervesa with lime or a soft drink, both cold and refreshing, but I thought why not enjoy mine with wine, the most refreshing of which is a chilled glass of sparkling wine! A perfectly suited sparkler from my friends at L. Mawby, Green offers a crisp acidity that compliments the mustard and pickled vegetables, while fruity apricot and citrus flavors cut through the richness cheese and pork with a clean, refreshing finish that cleanses the palate.

Don’t feel like braising your meat on the stove for a couple hours, no worries! Place it in your crockpot the morning of on high (4hrs) and preheat a braiser 30 mins before to sear the meat on all sides. Remember! Always let your meat rest to allow the juices to inside rather ending up with a dry piece of meat.

Visit L. Mawby Vineyard at 4519 S Elm Valley Road, Suttons Bay, 231.271.3522. or visit online at http://www.mawby.com. Tasting Room Open: Monday through Saturday, 12pm-6pm and Sunday 12pm-5pm.

Pickled onions
Ingredients
1 red onion thinly sliced
1 cup red wine vinegar
3 teaspoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Thinly slice the red onions and place them in a 8 oz. glass jar. Add the vinegar, sugar and salt and gently shake. Place in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Pickled onions will last 2 weeks + when kept in the refrigerator.

Braised Pork Shoulder
(recipe adapted from David Chang’s Momofuku braised pork)

Ingredients
3 lbs boneless pork shoulder
3 T sea salt
3 T white sugar
1 cup dry white wine
6 sprigs fresh thyme
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon juniper berries
freshly cracked black pepper

Trim excess fat from pork shoulder and season with salt, sugar, black pepper then place in large storage bag adding white wine and thyme sprigs, squeeze to remove all air before sealing then place on a plate and refrigerate at least four hours or preferably overnight. Let pork warm to room temperature before removing from bag, discarding marinade. Add the black peppercorns and juniper berries and cook in an uncovered roasting pan at 250°F for 6 hours. Start basting halfway through with pan drippings every 20 minutes or so. At the end of the cooking time, remove from oven, cover with foil and allow to rest for 30 minutes, then shred with two forks.


French Style Cuban Sandwiches
makes 4-5 sandwiches

Ingredients
6 ounces smoked ham sliced moderately thick
3/4 pound braised pork (recipe above)
Mild raclette cheese, thinly sliced (I get mine from Leelanau Cheese)
Thinly sliced cornichons (I used Maille Cornichons, regular dill slices will do in a pinch)
4 six-inch soft baguettes or French rolls, split lengthwise
Dijon mustard (I used Maille Chablis however their white wine mustard would be a perfect alternative. Check out their boutique store online where they keep a few mustards on tap in addition to other products waiting to be shipped to you.)
Pickled red onions (recipe below)
Radishes, thinly sliced
Softened butter, for brushing

Heat a cast iron skillet on the stovetop. Smear mustard on both sides of the inside of the bread. Top with cheese, pork, ham, radishes, cornichons and top with more cheese. Butter each side of the outside of the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes on medium high heat (or a panini press) until the cheese is gooey. Serve immediately.

Featured Products
Staub Cast Iron 4-qt Round Cocotte – Saffron
L. Mawby Sparkling Wine – Green
Epicurean Cutting Board
Fleur de Sel de Guérande
Maille Mustard and Cornichons
Leelanau Raclette Cheese

L. Mawby Tradition with rigatoni, chicken sausage, arugula and aged raclette cheese (Series)

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The end of summer calls for heartier dishes such as soups and stews, but this is the time when I really start to crave breads and pasta. When we traveled in Italy we were surprised how uncommon tomato-based sauces were; white wine sauces made with butter or olive oil and grated cheeses seemed much more popular, along with light-bodied sauces with stewed meats with fresh vegetables and tender beans. Another surprise was an inability to locate “Italian” sausages which are apparently an American creation, in their place were dozens of local specialty sausages. Since experiencing pasta this way we rarely have it with marinara, and in place of spaghetti we prefer heartier shapes like rigatoni and top our plate with peppery arugula. Tonight we had rigatoni in a light stock-based sauce with grilled chicken sausages and arugula topped with a rich, nutty aged raclette.

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One of our favorite European cheeses, raclette is famous for its tangy, nutty flavor and excellent melting qualities, but is hard to come by and very expensive in America. I was quite delighted to learn of a thoroughly authentic and utterly delicious raclette made in northern Michigan by a dedicated couple who have spent decades traveling around Europe making cheeses and memories, who now offer the fruits of their considerable experience to American gourmands at very reasonable prices. On a recent trip up there, I was invited to visit Leelanau Cheese to meet master cheesemakers John and Anne Hoyt to see how they make raclette and talk about how they got started in artisanal cheesemaking, which will feature in an upcoming article about their lovely creamery and exquisite cheeses.

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While aged raclette doesn’t melt like a young raclette, it infuses the sauce with its rich flavors, totally transforming the dish with layers of ripe, earthy, and grassy flavor so I decided to pair it with L. Mawby’s Tradition sparkling wine. A classic pinot noir and chardonnay based non-vintage blend, Tradition brings ripe apple and pear, a lingering honeyed, velvety body and a crisp finish that cuts through the richness of pasta and aged cheese, refreshing the palate.

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Rigatoni with Chicken Sausage, Arugula and Aged Raclette
serves 4

Ingredients
2 cups rigatoni or pasta of your choice
12 oz. of chicken sausage
3 cups fresh arugula
1 cup chicken (or vegetable) broth
1/2 cup shredded aged raclette
dash of red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon of olive oil
sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper for taste

Instructions

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then add salt and cook pasta until al dente, according to package instructions. Drain. Reserve 1/4 cup of cooking water.

In a grill pan, grill the sausages until lightly browned on all sides. Allow them to rest on your cutting board for 5 minutes before slicing them into thick chunks. By allowing them to rest you won’t lose their juiciness.

In a large non-stick skillet heat 1 teaspoon of olive oil over medium heat, add the chicken sausage and cook 3 minutes on each side. Add the chicken broth and reserved pasta water to the skillet and scrape up the browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add the arugula, red pepper flakes, raclette cheese and cook for 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle each serving with shredded raclette and serve immediately.

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Staub Cast Iron 12″ Round Steam Grill – Dark Blue
WÜSTHOF Classic IKON 3 ½” Paring Knife
L. Mawby Sparkling Wine Tradition
Epicurean Cutting Board
Pasta Rummo
Leelanau Raclette Cheese  

L. Mawby Cremant Classic with roasted figs and pears with crème anglaise (Series)

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As the long hot growing season draws to a close, shorted days and cooler weather transform northern Michigan into a kaleidoscope of Autumn colors. This is my favorite time of year and the perfect time to visit farmer’s markets and wineries to enjoy the fruits the harvest. More than a decade ago, Jason and I would venture up to northern Michigan every late summer to pick apples and follow the wine trails, tasting and buying cases of wines for the winter. One winery that always stood out in particular was L. Mawby and their selection of spectacular sparkling wines. Though his methods are traditionally French, Larry’s irreverent approach to sparkling wines shines through in their styles. With names like Green, Fizz, and Sex, Larry produces some fun wines with seriously good qualities that have made them very popular across the Midwest, earning him a reputation for excellence in winemaking.

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In June, I had the pleasure of meeting Larry at the Michigan Wine and Grape Counsil’s – Michigan Wine Showcase. It was my second year covering the event, but my first chance to meet with Larry and shake his hand, so I was quite delighted to see that he still offers some of my longtime favorites along with an extensive line of excellent bubbles I hadn’t tried before.
While visiting Sutton’s Bay recently I stopped by the winery for a tasting and was greeted by a room full of cheerful guests, the clinking of wine flutes and laughter filled the air. Larry himself came out to greet us and lead us to a table outside overlooking the vineyard where we sat down for a brief interview that will appear in an upcoming piece.  

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Over the next couple of weeks I will be featuring a few of Larry’s favorite wines paired with recipes featuring seasonal local ingredients. This week I have paired his Cremant Classic with 
caramelized figs, and roasted red d’Anjou and bartlett pears topped with a delicate crème anglaise and a dusting of nutmeg.

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Crement Classic is made from 100% hand-picked Vignoles grapes pressed in whole clusters and fermented in stainless steel to produce bright fruit flavors, then blended with oak-aged reserve wines to present spicy and nutty character and then bottle fermented. The result is an astonishingly aromatic wine in a classical Brut style that pairs perfectly with caramelized fruits. Classically trained in literature, each of Larry’s wines feature a poem on the label inspired by his his time traveling around Europe. Cremant Classic features an interesting turn of verse that hints at the pleasures of uncorking (wine as well as life) and compares the bubbles in wine to stars in the night sky.

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Visit L. Mawby Vineyard at 4519 S Elm Valley Road, Suttons Bay, 231.271.3522. or visit online at http://www.mawby.com. Tasting Room Open: Monday through Saturday, 12pm-6pm and Sunday 12pm-5pm.

Roasted caramelized figs and pears with Crème Anglaise
serves 4

Ingredients
2 d’Anjou or barlett pears (cut into 8 wedges each)
2 teaspoons of brown sugar
6 fresh figs, sliced in half

Preparation
Preheat oven to 450’F. Place sliced pears in a bowl and combine brown sugar, gently covering all sides. Place prepared pears on a baking sheet and roast until tender (roughly 8-12 minutes). Add figs with the insides faced down and roast until soften for 2-3 minutes.

Meanwhile prepare the crème anglaise (See below).

Once your vanilla cream custard is done divide your fruit  among 4 serving bowls. Top with the vanilla cream custard and garnish with a dash of freshly grated nutmeg. Serve immediately.


Crème Anglaise à la Vanille (Vanilla Custard Cream)
(makes a little over 2 cups)

Ingredients
2 cups of milk
2 vanilla beans
6 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
a pinch of salt

Preparation
Fill a medium saucepan with cold water and dump it out, do not wipe it dry; this will keep the milk from sticking as it cooks. Make a cold water bath either in a shallow pan or in your sink and add a medium bowl and fine strainer to it.

Add the milk to the saucepan. Slice the vanilla beans in half lengthwise and scrape the tiny seeds out into the milk. In a large saucepan, combine the milk and vanilla beans and cook over moderately low heat just until small bubbles appear around the rim, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, beat together the egg yolks and the sugar, using either a whisk or a handheld electric beater. Beat until the mixture is smooth, pale, and doubled in volume. The electric beater should take about 5 minutes.

Whisk in half of the hot half-and-half in a thin stream. Pour the mixture into the saucepan and cook over low to moderate heat, stirring constantly and gently with a spoon or spatula, being sure to scrape the bottom of the saucepan to keep the mixture from sticking. Cook until the sauce has thickened slightly, 4 to 5 minutes. Do not allow the mixture to bubble. Remove spatula and run a finger across it’s back; if the track remains (instead of being immediately covered by the cream), the custard is finished.

Strain the sauce into the bowl in the cold water bath to stop the cooking. Scrape the vanilla seeds into the sauce. Serve right away or refrigerate until chilled.

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Revol Porcelaine Basalt Individual Serving Bowl 
L. Mawby Sparkling Wine Crement Classic
Epicurean Cutting Board
WMF Silit Nutmeg Grater
WÜSTHOF Classic IKON 3 ½” Paring Knife

Black Star Farms Inn and Winery – Suttons Bay, Michigan

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Sutton’s Bay in the summertime is a photographer’s dream; from the stunning shoreline of Lake Michigan with its sandy beaches and ocean-like vastness to the hillside vineyards, this part of northern Michigan offers an escape from the flat Midwestern landscape. Straddling the 45th parallel, the Leelanau Peninsula is home to many wineries, small farms, farmstands and several  outstanding farm-to-table restaurants, making it a destination for vacationers and foodies alike.

The entrance to the inn and winery is a winding tree-lined road through a vineyard; rounding the bend reveals a secluded valley setting with barns and stables set among broad pastures, and a beautiful barn-red colonial style Inn. Horses graze in broad pens awaiting student riders while chickens peck at seeds and a dozen lambs and a troop of hogs frolic in pens, providing some of the most flavorful braised pork and tender lamb chops I’ve ever tasted.

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We check in to the quaint yet opulent Inn and drop off our bags. The room, named Polaris, was spacious and elegant in its appointments with a comfortable sitting area and a whirlpool tub. A box of chocolates on the pillow greeted us, as did a complimentary bottle of the Inn’s own Red House White wine (a fruity blend of predominantly chardonnay, perfect as a nightcap or a spin in the whirlpool). At the end of an unforgettable evening of food and wine, our room provided the perfect retreat of relaxation and comfort and a restful night’s sleep.  In the morning, we enjoyed Chef Dayton’s breakfast of sunnyside-up egg and braised pork with a hash of fresh summer vegetables (which the Chef insists was no effort, though the exquisite taste suggests otherwise) that provided ample energy for a morning spent touring the grounds and visiting with the adorable farm animals.

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The Black Star Farms Winery
Of particular note is the sprawling Black Star Farms; A world-class winery and tasting room are a main attraction as is their Inn, but it is also a working farm with horse stables, gardens, and livestock to supply its restaurants, as well as vineyards providing Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Cab Franc, Dornfelder, and Pinot Noir grapes for the wines.  I recently had the pleasure of staying a night at the Inn, attending an exquisitely prepared harvest dinner (which will be featured on its own piece), and a detailed tasting and tour of the winery lead by the head winemaker Lee Lutes himself.

While covering the second annual Michigan Wine Showcase hosted at City Winery in downtown Chicago, I had the pleasure of meeting with Kimberly Zacharias and previewing a few of Black Star Farms top wines. I was invited to visit Black Star Farms to tour the winery and meet with Head Winemaker Lee Lutes, learn a bit about his team and his process, and of course to taste more of their wonderful wines.

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A beautiful timbered space with ample natural light and hand-painted murals, the tasting room has a cathedral-like grandeur fitting the collection of award-winning wines presented. We take our tasting in an adjacent private tasting room decorated with barrel staves accentuated by a river of red wine-stained oak and custom lighting made from barrel hoops. This room, reserved for wine club members, is cleverly designed to maximize your enjoyment of Black Star’s wines and spirits, and is the perfect setting for our extensive tasting guided by Master Winemaker Lee Lutes, who lead us through an extensive array of wines and brandies, which I will detail later. His personal insights into the styles presented and commentary on local vineyards provided a background into the local wine culture that is absent from winery guides.

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Wine maker Lee Lutes acquired his winemaking skills in northern Italy, honed them in Michigan since 1992, and in 1998 he teamed up with the owners of Black Star Farms, having lead their winemaking efforts since then and winning countless medals in the process. Of his recent successes, two particular cab francs and a stunning dry Riesling stand out as fine examples of the excellent wines this winery and region can produce.

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2012 Arcturos Cab Franc
Cabernet Franc is an excellent fruit for cool climates, and this variety has a long history in the region. Plums, blackberries, and dark cherries are prominent; 12 months on American oak provides a balanced profile and depth.

2011 Leorie Vineyard Merlot/Cab Franc
This wine is exclusively made from grapes grown in a hillside enclave looking out on the bay; it’s sloping, terraced cove provides natural shelter from winds and acts as a heat trap producing fruit of outstanding qualities almost unparalleled in this region. Flanked by tall trees, eagles nesting among them virtually eliminate the need for bird netting and allow the grapes to fully ripen in the intense sunlight. We were lucky to receive a tour guided by Lee to take photos of the vineyard and felt the ~10 degree warmer temperatures as we enter the vineyard and ascend the steep, winding trail through the grapes.

A Bordeaux-style blend, structured flavors of dark plums, cassis, and forest berries; and a spicy underpinning of espresso and oak, thanks to the French, Hungarian, and American oak barrels on which it spent 14 months developing.

2011 Montague Estate Dry Riesling
Riesling is one of my favorite varietals, and thanks to my time in Germany, I favor dry Rieslings, good ones can be hard to find.  This one is crafted with fruit from a single vineyard, and displays a surprisingly complex Riesling profile of crisp apple and citrus flavors, with dried apricot, early peach, and white pepper providing a neat and clean finish.

The Hearth & Vine restaurant at Black Star Farms
Situated beside the stables, Hearth and Vine is a beautiful place to stop for a meal after riding lessons or a wine tasting, and offers a delightful menu highlighted by brick-oven pizzas and small plates accompanied by Black Star’s own wines and fruit brandies. We enjoyed the pickled farm fresh eggs, beets, and red onions as a starter, along with a strawberry garden salad (the Chef substituted a just-picked mix of arugula, bibb, and red leaf lettuce with micro greens in place of frisee) and a stellar raclette pizza with a creamy potato puree, caramelized onion, and arugula highlighted with raclette and fromage blanc cheeses made just around the corner by John and Anne of nearby Leelanau Cheese.

The rustic ambiance is enhanced by hand-made wooden tables and chairs made of repurposed wine barrels situated in a low, sweeping space centered around an open kitchen and brick oven. During the summer months Hearth & Vine hosts weekly fish boils every friday night at 6:30.

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The Stables at Black Star Farms
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We have been visiting northern Michigan to experience the wine and food since the early 2000’s, and have witnessed a transformation from quaint weekend getaway to a fully-fledged food and wine lover’s paradise; a captivating atmosphere of gorgeous scenery and warmhearted, genuine people await visitors, as does an endless supply of exquisite wines to suit nearly every palate. In the intervening years living abroad we have come to realize that good food and good wine are what life is all about, and having a place so full of pleasures located so conveniently close to Chicago is truly a blessing.

Harvest Dinner at Black Star Farms – Suttons Bay, Michigan

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Hosted at the Inn at Black Star Farms, harvest dinners are monthly events spotlighting the best of seasonal fruits and vegetables in a coursed menu with wine pairings that present the diner with a dining experience spotlighting a locally grown in-season ingredient; in July ours featured strawberries.

The elegant dinner setting featured a long table on a veranda beside a Victorian-style garden with croquet arches and mallets inviting a friendly match between courses; we found the delightful food and wine pairings were plenty of entertainment.  Hosted by the gracious Stephanie Lee Wiitala, who was also the pastry Chef for this meal, we were guided through each course and its paired wine with details of ingredients and preparation including the Chef’s own insights, each new course brought waves of fresh seasonal flavors, and were intriguing in their use of the star ingredient.

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Just before dinner a round of artisanal cocktails featuring fresh strawberry infused vodka served as aperitif and prepared our palates for the coming meal.  As we chose our seats we mingled with the other guests, we learned that many of them had attended previous harvest dinners and keep coming back for more.  The table was elegantly set and lit by paper lanterns, and as we sat down our servers Sarah, Brad, and Katie began pouring the first wine as our host Chef Stephanie welcomed us and explained the seasonal menu built around fresh-picked strawberries and other ingredients harvested right here from Black Star’s own kitchen gardens.

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Amuse – Strawberry barbeque lamb ribs, smoked focaccia, verjus cream, oregano blossoms served with Blushed Sparkling wine

Lamb is not my favorite protein so I had some apprehensions but this turned out to be my favorite dish of the night. Tender lamb ribs dressed with a subtle sweet strawberry barbecue sauce and topped with a delicately acidic verjus cream atop a round of smoked focaccia. The combination of smoky, sweet, and acidic flavors with the richness of farm fresh lamb was exquisite. The blushed sparkling wine added a crisp, sweet note that perfectly complimented the tangy and savory strawberry barbecue glaze.

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Second Course – Strawberries and house ricotta with mustard greens, lemon powder, rhubarb strawberry vinaigrette served with 2012 Arcturos Dry Riesling
Fresh, ripe strawberries, housemade ricotta, and mustard greens dressed with strawberry rhubarb vinaigrette with a dusting of lemon powder; the delicate flavor of housemade ricotta is the star of this dish. Much lighter in texture and creamier than store bought ricotta could ever be, with a subtle hint of acidity thanks to the verjus used in its’ preparation, this delightful recipe may appear in a future writeup of it’s own. Matched incredibly with a 2012 Arcturos Dry Riesling which refreshed the palate with crisp apple and dried apricot flavors; an interplay of sweet and savory, creamy and bitter, a balanced jumble of pleasures on your fork and if it were a touch sweeter, would make an interesting dessert!

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Third Course – Strawberry gazpacho, basil ice, flowers, radishes served with 2013 Arcturos Pinot Gris
I was immediately intrigued by the basil ice, and being a classical match for strawberries the combination was like a kiss between spring and summer. The crisp bite of fresh radish drew me back to reality with a reassuring bitter crunch, the trio of flavors presented in perfect harmony. Paired with 2013 Arcturos Pinot Gris; an elegant wine lush with fruits and green melons, with a hint of floral chamomile and marigold on the nose providing a delightfully perfect sip of early summer.

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Fourth Course – Sage and red wine pork sausage with strawberry salsa, rhubarb mustard served with 2012 Arcturos Pinot Noir
I marveled at the flavors of the tender, savory, plump pork sausage, hand made and herbed with sage; paired with the fresh yet strangely familiar flavors of the strawberry salsa. An interesting rhubarb mustard provided earthy, sharp acidity that countered that of the strawberry, enforcing the appearance of an entirely savory presentation and a natural match for the flavors of the pork sausage. The salsa itself, a 1:1 substitution of strawberries for tomatoes in your typical savory salsa drew an immediate comparison between the red ripeness of tomatoes and strawberries; a surprisingly similar match I had never thought of. With the strawberry lending a hit of fruity acidity that tomatoes just can’t match, it was a total surprise that changed forever the way I view these two fruits; could the humble strawberry masquerade as a vegetable as well as the tomato does? More on this in future articles. The 2012 Arcturos Pinot Noir brought dark plums and cherry flavors and rich, oaky notes, a delightful accompaniment to this dish.

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Fifth Course – Strawberry fromage cream, lemon shortbread, strawberry balsamic reduction, thyme, candied berries served with Sirius White
Strawberry fromage cream featuring fromage blanc made just around the corner at Leelanau Cheese lends creaminess and fruity acidity to the delightfully rich lemon shortbread. The perfect marriage of rich, buttery shortbread and light, creamy fromage is set off by a tantalizing strawberry-balsamic reduction that gave depth and savory contrast to this sweet combination. The shortbread was tender and rich with a satisfyingly dense, tender texture that screamed for the creamy fromage and refreshingly sweet, lively candied strawberries and fresh thyme leaves. A fascinating study in the marriage of contrasting flavors and textures, I was nearly moved to tears and may have inadvertently licked my plate. The Sirius White dessert wine selected as accompaniment is a cordial of sweet white wine fortified with fruit brandies. Sweet and delicious served chilled and displaying full, round summer fruits, it was a deliciously decadent finish to a spectacular meal.

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In summary the evening was wonderful, the meal incredible, and the weather and setting created the perfect atmosphere to enjoy spectacular food and wine at an unhurried and friendly pace. The staff at Black Star Farms are a warm-hearted bunch who treated us like family, making us feel right at home.  After dinner we enjoyed a nightcap of the Inn’s house white wine while sitting around an outdoor fire pit, listening to crickets chirping and the crackle of logs, the stresses of city life having long since evaporated and as the fire and the wine faded we retired to our very comfortable bed for a deep sleep.